In the morning we visit Karnak Temple. The many, many columns that make up this temple within a temple, built over many hundred of years are larger than life. The Hall of Pillars is truly that, so big, so close together, all carved to the roof that no longer exists. Karnak is the largest building in the world. Incredibly detailed carving! We see Ptah's Temple off to one side, the Sekmet statue of the Lion God. There are two standing obelisks, one is Hatshepsut's, her second obelisk is fallen. The second standing one is her step son Thutmoses III. everyone controbuted to this temple. There is the wall of vanquished emeies. The room that shows all of the plants in the botanical gardens. A large sacred lake. A statue of Tutakhamun and his wife. And of course the proverbial Temple of the Coca Cola.
We are amazed and will return for the sound a light show...We see briefly Medinet Habu but no time to stop because we are off to the Tomb of Seti I, closed to the general public. The day before Naga had introduced me (the lady from NASA) to the Antiquities Inspector's - another large group of men sitting sround "working". But they were marvelous and funny and gave us tea and promised I would get to see Seti I for some serious baksheesh. WORTH EVERY PENNY.
Richard says they only open it for presidents and kings (and National Geographic). I feel duly honored. We photograph and videotape the splendor that was Egypt. It is very big, very beautiful (many photos here), a long tunnel leads into a pillared hall and to one side an unfinshed room where you can see the workmen's sketches. These are all raised reliefs (i.e. carved out) which are early and rare. The hieroglpyhs cover every inch, and the paintings take your breath away. Am I here? Is this real? About as unbelieveable as Abu Simbel. Very moving, very deep, spirtual and timeless. It clinches my passion to return. My plan for the Virtual Tour of Egypt begins to solidify. How to let the masses see this tomb without destroying it. Why virtually of course, and not by video but by experiencing it slowly like we did and on your own.
Really, really not to scale!
We go to the Tomb of Ay which is located in the Valley of the Baboons...He was the successor (murderer?) of Tutankhamun. All yellows and a large sarcophagus, where did the mummies go? Some were removed and hidden by priests and found amazingly in the 1800's in two caches and now reside in the Cairo Museum, a museum that longs for restoration!!!! Where are the weathy people we need to save our ancient history????
We stop and take photos of the Colossus of Memnon, actually the statues that were the entrance to the Temple of Amenhotep II which is now gone. They are so decrepid they look like chunky robot men (*anyone remember Gigantor?). Picked up some lovely shawls for gifts, they are light and lovely. Another Papyrus shop...more shopping....the ferry home to our hotel.
Begin reading "1000 Miles up the Nile", Amelia Edwards trip in the 1800's (the basis for the Amelia Peabody character). We plan to ride Camels at 6pm for sunset. And the Karnak Sound and light show after dinner! What a day!
Ferry to the West Bank..Camels!! I love them, they are so easy to ride, tough to get on and off but easy, easy to ride! The girls get freaked and choose a short ride, I could have ridden for hours, I was disappointed. Another reason to return. We go through the town and out to the country side and turn around and find we are leading a group of 100 tourists! I was in front and had NO IDEA! I thought it was just us, how terribly funny. Young boys lead us, we are all laughing and smiling. The town is getting ready for a wedding, Naga yells hi from a roadside cafe where he is drinking even more tea. My camel was named Fox!!!! (the name of my best cat and the name of Fox Mulder from X-files of course).
Karnak Sound and Light Show
This is the hokiest part of the trip, actually rather awful. I am so tired by the time we reach the seating area I promptly fall asleep. It is a trip through the Temple at Night in the dark with hokey dialogue and basically no information and then more of the same at the lake. No fireworks or lasars. The girls get hit on majorly by the tourist guys. We all laugh. Tomorrow we go to Abydos and Dendura!
Turkish Coffee is horrible!